As we were returning from Antarctica with our 10-year-old Kidsetter on a Hurtigruten Cruise ship we were fortunate to experience Patagonia.
Due to COVID restrictions and the Chilean government we were only allowed to view Punta Arenas from a tour bus. Punta Arenas is of port and sheep tradition, this gateway to the Antarctic continent captivates with its pure air and sophisticated European architecture.
We sailed on to Puerto Williams which is a major hub for scientific activity linked to Antarctica. The town has been a base for Chile to assert sovereignty around Cape Horn and support it’s Antarctica bases.
Next we sailed through the Strait of Magellan. The spectacular Magellan Strait that is far from it with narrow inlets and an S shape that’s almost impossible to navigate. It was discovered and first traversed by a Portuguese explorer named Ferdinand Magellan in 1520.
Despite its tricky passageways and cold climate, the Strait of Magellan was an important route for steam and sailing ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, up until the completion of the Panama Canal in 1914, which shortened that passage by thousands of miles.
Impressive leadership from our Captain as we navigate 1.4km wide channel through the fjords to Puerto Natales. Spectacular scenery and condors flying above the Andes to greet us.
Arriving in Punta Natales we headed out exploring via a tour bus due to the pandemic. We enjoyed viewing the town and learning about the history of this wind-swept town.
We were excited to learn upon arriving at the Monumento natural Cueva del Milodón we were able to explore. The Mylodon Cave is a cavity formed by the waves of a paleolake 14,500 years ago. It is 200 meters deep, 80 wide and 30 high.
The cave and surroundings have been a rich source of information for archaeologists and palaeontologists. Thanks to the findings here they have described the fauna from 14,000 years ago, and they learnt about the first humans who came to this area.
They have only uncovered and excavated a small part of the cave, which has a floor that still hides remains from the ice age of extinct animals such as the Saber-Toothed Tiger and Sloths. A unique and invaluable heritage.
As we wandered the cave, we were transported by our Expedition Team guide ‘Luciano’ who played soulful melodies on his traditional Andean flute that echoed through the cavity.
Next, we drove to the famous Torres del Paine. The scenery is everything you expect and more. We stopped at many lookouts for incredible panoramic sights.
One of the most stunning places in Torres del Paine National Park is Lago Grey, where you can view pieces of the giant Grey Glacier that have broken off and populated the lake. The Grey Glacier is one of Torres del Paine’s most spectacular glaciers, and tumbles into Lago Grey. The Grey Glacier is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, and at its peak is 30 metres high, and around six kilometres wide.
We were prepared for a ‘hike’ around Lago Grey versus a ‘walk’, which meant we wore insufficient clothing, and the weather was icy cold.
We followed lakeside trail up onto the cliffs, with our Expedition Team ornithangist Lancy. Our Kidsetter and Lancy had become friends on the Hurtriguten ship and were chatting away about various topics. They taught each other new languages as they walked. They asked each other if you could time travel which era would they each chose. Interestingly our Kidsetter answered WWI if he could return to present day. This would help him understand what it must feel like to live in a war-torn country and upon returning be able to fully appreciate living in a peaceful country. Lancy answered that he’d visit the Dinosaur era to observe the evolution of birds. They asked each other if they could be a bird which would they choose? Lancy replied, a King Penguin as he is yet to see one in the wild. This would mean that when he looked in the mirror he could say he’s seen a King Penguin !
After about a mile we reached an outstanding viewpoint where we viewed the Grey Glacier.
The return walk to our bus via the route we had just taken became exceptionally intense. What should have been a very easy walk across the Lago Grey was anything but ! The weather changed for the worse with winds blowing at 50kph and a hailstorm had set in. Each step felt like we’d taken 20 steps attempting to move into the forceful winds whilst the hail saturated our clothing. This would have been OK if we’d worn the right clothing. Wear waterproof pants !
As the day progressed the weather improved and we continued to enjoy our stunning location (with a change of clothes !) Our Kidsetter is not the least shy and promptly saw an opportunity to replace our tour guide by grabbing the microphone to welcome guests returning to the bus and performing rap songs.
The following day we ventured onto the zodiacs on the glasslike water to visit the Pio XI Glacier. The glacier towers 10m above and we felt so small. Inaccessible by land we’re just so lucky to see this. A special detour to the largest glacier in the Southern Hemisphere (other than the Antarctic). Wow !!
Patagonia is a place that offers Kidsetters the opportunity to experience the grandeur and majestic elements of nature.
