We travelled to UNESCO world heritage site Mont Saint Michel in France with our 13-month-old Kidsetter. It was a dream come true ! A Gothic-style Benedictine abbey founded in 966, dedicated to the archangel St Michael, perched on a rocky islet amid vast sandbanks exposed to powerful tides between Normandy and Brittany.
Having left our larger bags in the car off the island, we checked into our delightful hotel – La Mere Poulard (Mother Poulard), an institution on Mont Saint Michel. Established in 1888, it entails 4 floors of charming accommodation. There is no lift and climbing the narrow windy staircase is the only option which only added to the enchantment. You couldn’t help but think of all the guests from a bygone era that had walked the same stairs.
Staying on this magical island was exciting. Early one morning (3am) it sounded like a bomb had exploded, but alas just a thunderstorm. The Bay of the Mont-Saint-Michel has some of the biggest tidal variations in the world, creating an ever-changing seascape. It makes for a sublime sight, watching the waters and patterns across the vast bay change hour by hour, minute by minute. The glorious Bay of the Mont-Saint-Michel has, like the holy mount itself, been classified a World Heritage Site.
Exploring Mont Saint Michel was an unforgettable experience. Thankfully we had bought the baby carrier to carry our Kidsetter as strollers are useless on cobbled streets. Climbing the steep winding village street which is lined by museums, restaurants and shops. Eventually reaching the Benedictine abbey, amidst the spectacular flying buttresses, Gothic pinnacles and a statue of Saint Michel. We learnt that you can attend a morning service and thought we’d embark on it the following morning.
Mont Saint Michel is exceptionally peaceful at 5:30am with no one around. Observing the early morning service was stunning. 5 nuns and 4 monks kneeling by the altar praying in silence then standing up to sing a song than return to kneeling. As the sun rose the monks and nuns were singing their psalms. At 6:50am a monk ran the abbey bell to conclude the service. A serene experience.
We were famished after arising so early and returned to have a La Mere Poulard’s signature omelette. Made in a long-handled copper pan, over an open fire, using six eggs, served with a dish of potatoes and bacon on the side. Yum !
Whilst the masses of tourists would flock to visit Mont Saint Michel during the day, we’d catch the shuttle bus off the island and return to our hired car. We would explore the surrounding towns for the day, returning to Mont Saint Michel once all the tourists had vanished.
In the evening back at Mont Saint Michel, we attended the vespar service, assuming there would only be few people attending. No, there were between 400 – 500 people. Not the spiritual, reflective time we’d hoped for at all ! Oddly, during the service one of the monks started playing a guitar, I thought all the monks and nuns were going to break out into some country dancing ‘Heel and Toe’, ‘Heel and Toe’ and they’d all lift their robes, exposing spurs on the back of their heels. Quite a different experience from the morning service. Maybe this was the tourist version ?
It was time to leave the awe-inspiring island. Our Kidsetter was sitting on his dad’s lap during the shuttle bus journey which was full of people, (felt like Melbourne’s public transport in rush hour). Unbeknownst to us, our Kidsetter was up to mischief. People were laughing, speaking French and looking at us. Then we spotted it ! Our Kidsetter was touching a girl’s backside ! The more people laughed, the more he repeated it. Very cute and so embarrassing !
Mont Saint Michel is one of the most magical and spiritual place on earth that will leave a lasting impression on any Kidsetter at any age.
